Jul 9, 2013

With our ambitions high, we drove to the trailhead for the Highline Trail and Swiftcurrent Pass and got started right away. Shortly after starting the trail we came upon a family looking off to a field on their left. It was quickly apparent we were in the company of two bears: a grizzly and a black bear. We watched them chase each other around the field for a while, they ran away then got closer to us and we soon decided we should move along. We stayed near the guy who had bear spray since we had neglected to get any.

The trail is nice, ascending slowly through the forest before opening up to a stream crossing and then ascending more rapidly with more exposure. The trail is well-maintained and easy to follow the whole way.

There were a few rocky outcroppings that allowed nice views before continuing up the steeper parts of the trail. We sat here and had a snack, watching ground squirrels and a mountain goat far off in the distance walking on what seemed to be a very steeply angled snowy mountainside.

 oAll along the trail we saw these guys. We kept calling them ptarmigans because we didn't know what they were but had heard that name thrown around. We later found out they are ground squirrels. Not as cool. But we still enjoyed watching them scamper across the trail and play.

The trail became relatively open as the trees became more sparse. This was a really beautiful section where we could see mountains off in the distance all around and the trail snaking its way onward. This is where the trail diverged and headed up very steeply.

The long switchbacks up this final climb were taxing and mostly empty. We passed one group on their way down, muttering encouragement to us. We could see the tiny fire tower atop this mountain, but it seemed to grow so slowly and we weaved along the trail through birch trees. There were parts that became even more steep and we were planting our trekking poles hard on every step to pull ourselves to the top.

Arriving at the top, we barely took in the view before planting ourselves in the shade to rest. There is a fire tower cabin with stone steps atop the high point, inhabited by a single park ranger. We scanned the mountains all around us; views for miles stretched off in all directions. It was a beautifully clear day.

It's hard to know in which direction to look when everywhere is so amazingly breathtaking. This is basically the center of the park and we can see the whole thing from up there.

The park ranger came out to speak with us. It was just us and him up there. He was a friendly older man. He is retired and lives up there for a week or so at a time and then has a few days off. He knows the names of all the mountains in the distance and even names the little creatures that come visit his steps all day. They were, at the time, inspecting our packs for possible free food. He told us some great stories and suggested things for us to do in the park. He even gave me a topographical map of the park to take with me. I really enjoyed talking to him.

We watched a mountain goat below for a while as he wandered looking for food. After getting a few more good stares in at the insane views we finally said goodbye to the ranger and headed back down.

These long stretches of trail through the birch trees were really beautiful to me. The return trip is never as exciting as the ascent because the views just slowly fade. Especially an out and back trip since you've seen everything already.

This park maintains its transcendent quality no matter how long you've been there. Walking along mountain passes, through thick forests, or open snow fields it always seems to be something new. As always, the hike back seemed longer because we were passing thing we knew, always believing that we were closer to the finish than we really were because we would forget that one section. We knew we were getting very close at one point when we passed a couple who told us they saw a grizzly off the left ahead.

We commenced our clapping and yelling routine as we had been doing all day, but now we upped the frequency and volume. I wasn't interested in a bear encounter without the protection of bear spray. We got to the bridge we crossed on our way in, stopping because we saw a big grizzly on the other side being harassed or taunted by a group of people trying to take photos. Dumbasses (in my best Red Forman voice.)

As we watched the grizzly take off into the woods we let out a sigh of relief and started toward the bridge when, ten feet from it, a black bear popped up from below the bridge right in front of us. The bear looked at us for a couple of seconds that seemed much longer, then grunted and took off over the bridge. Why would a bear cross the river when it could use a bridge? Once it was safely away on the other side we crossed the bridge over the wet paw prints and hauled it the last quarter mile back to the parking lot. Once there I saw the bears trotting through the woods with the dumbasses in fast pursuit. I was just happy to have a car to duck into if necessary.

It was certainly an exciting and full day. We looked around the gift shop for a bit, picking up a couple of small things, and then we headed out to find a campground. As it turned out all the campgrounds were full for the night so we made some food at the visitor center parking lot and then headed down to Cut Bank where we found a place to park the car and sleep because there was nowhere to put a tent.